Natalie Cumberbirch shares how baking took her across Europe and back to East Vancouver.
After high school, Natalie Cumberbirch studied dietetics at the University of British Columbia but was stumped by first-year chemistry. She decided to try something entirely new: the Culinary program at VCC, followed by the Baking & Pastry program.
"You could tell that the instructors really cared, they would ask what our dreams were,” she said, reflecting on what she learned beyond recipes and cooking skills, like what it would be like to join Culinary Team Canada or open a restaurant. “You have no idea the scope of the culinary world, where it could take you, and what the opportunities are.”
One of Natalie's VCC instructors connected her with a baker in Germany, who offered her an opportunity to stage in Europe; after, she did a stint baking in Barcelona. Natalie was back in Canada and working in Tofino when she got a call asking if she could return to Europe – this time to work in a Michelin-star restaurant in Paris – within the month. She hopped at the chance.
“I didn't speak any French, it was 18-hour days, and all plated desserts, which is not what I felt called to do,” she said. “I remember within the first month saying to my dad, ‘I don't think I can do this.’”
But she persevered and stayed for a year, learning entirely new skills. She knew Paris had more to offer, so she approached Mamiche, a small bakery near her apartment. "I walked in and the music was blasting and everyone's having fun. The owners were best friends and so inspiring, the vibes were just so good.” She stayed for another year baking breads and laminated pastries and learning about running a bakery from the two young female owners.
She returned to Canada and started her Red Seal program in February 2020, just before the world shut down. By September, Natalie had started Merci Boulangerie, her humble-beginnings, Paris-inspired bakery. “We worked out of a commissary kitchen and at the time it was just me and one other employee. We focused on online ordering and offered delivery twice a week.”
As business expanded through farmer’s markets and wholesale opportunities, she got a tip that a location on Commercial Drive and 12th Ave was available, so she jumped on it. October will be three years in this location, and Merci now employs 20 people and has a lineup of customers before the doors open. Word has spread that it’s a Commercial Drive gem.
"If you asked me six years ago, I would have never thought that we'd be at this size or have this many bakers or be supplying to this many wholesalers. It feels good to share these opportunities and be part of this community.”
Today she’s inspired by the seasons and grateful for the team who works so hard to make things click. But when she’s not fixing ovens or scheduling staff, Natalie is thinking about how else she can grow.
Learn about VCC's upcoming Baking and Pastry Arts programs to begin your culinary journey.